Sarlat’s truffle celebration grows from the region’s seasonal trade in the black Périgord truffle, rather than from an ancient street carnival. The local producers’ association, tourist office and municipality put this winter ingredient at the centre of a public food festival. Its connection with the Culinary Academy of Foie Gras and Truffles explains why markets and professional cooking share the programme.

The attraction is the journey from soil to plate. Producers explain the crop, chefs demonstrate how to use it and small tasting portions let visitors compare flavours without committing to an elaborate meal. Fresh truffles also appear at the town’s winter market. That working relationship between growers, cooks and customers is the festival’s identity; come to learn as well as eat.